Month: May 2011

I stayed in a gorgeous rural guesthouse, it was so rural it didnt even have a television! I left early, before the owners were up, so I had to let myself out. Not easy when trying to push a 50+ kilo bike through small doorways and trying not to wake anyone.

Up until Vega Del Valcarce the climb was gentle. This is when the real climbing begins. Today was supposed to be one of the hardest of the camino. Involving an agonising climb back into the mountains. To be honest, it wasn’t too bad. It wasn’t particularly steep, just went on for a long time.

Once at the top I got my sello and carried on. There are a number of small peaks before one of the best downhill’s ever, much better than any rollercoaster I’ve been on. The road was smooth, twisting and turning down the mountain made the climb worth every bead of sweat.

This took me almost down into Sarria (barring a few small hills), where I stopped for a tasty pollo sandwich and a sello at the local tourist office.

The route from Sarria to Portomarin is quite difficult. Very steep hills but with some very long downhills. This made the 20 odd kilometres seem more like 50, but I made it without any problems.

I never saw the French guys today. One of them wasn’t feeling too good yesterday so perhaps they stayed in Villafranca Del Bierzo. I did pass two Spanish guys I’d seen before, they make motorcycle noises at me because I overtake them so quickly.

Tomorrow is my last day on the camino. I will finally reach Santiago De Compostela. I can’t wait! Then I get to chill out for a whole two weeks, a holiday at last!

The French guys turn out to be top blokes. Simon, Ben and Mathew (I’m pretty sure are their names). We sat at their refugio drinking and eating, it was a good evening. They tell me that my refugio experience at Najera wasn’t typical, and that I should try another one. I’m not entirely convinced but say I might.

The next morning I bump into them again just before we set off up the highest peak of the camino. I set off ahead. It certainly wasn’t as bad as the route from Saint Jean Pied du Port but it was tiring just the same. It also didn’t help that I’d only just got up and my body wasn’t quite ready for such exertion. Made it to the top (1800m) where I was joined by the French guys. Just before the top is an iron cross called the Cruz De Farro. You’re supposed to bring a stone from your home town and leave it at the base. Bringing a stone from Birmingham wasn’t on my list of things to pack, so unfortunately I couldn’t contribute.

After this is an 18km decent almost all the way into Ponferrada. The views were absolutely stunning but I was enjoying the downhill so much I failed to stop and take any pictures.

I had two huge croissants in Ponferrada before continuing the 10 miles on to Villafranca del Bierzo. I arrived just after midday.

Over the last two days the guide I’ve been following has only suggested short distances. They are a little too short as I’m arriving at my destination by dinner and not appreciating a full days ride. Luckily, tomorrow covers more ground, and I should reach Santiago de Compostela by Thursday.

I had a nice day in Leon, apart from it being a Sunday. I needed to get some supplies but everything was shut. The cathedral is a stunner outside and in, and it is free entry unlike Burgos. The amount of stained glass sets the cathedral off with so many colours. As it was a Sunday there was a service going on and the organ filled the cathedral with music.

On the night, I was sleeping well until I got woken at 02:30 by some noisy people getting back and making as much noise as possible. Tried to block it out with some music but this didn’t help. Two hours later they were asleep, and so was I.

I left the hotel early. First stop was Astorga. The route was a steady incline along the N120 but my pace was good. At Astorga I bumped into three French cyclists, one had quit because his chain had snapped. They were amazed that I could fix it. This slowed me down somewhat but I was only planning on doing 73km today, and only had 20km left to Rabanal Del Camino.

After fixing the chain, and saying goodbye I was on my way again, not before eating two large custard filled tarts, for the sugar of course! Still a steady incline all the way to Rabanal, only a little steeper. I’m told it gets steeper after this, up to the highest point on the camino, bring it on I say, looking forward to the steep downhill into Ponferrada.

Rabanal is a beautiful little farming village. There are two hotels and just as many hostals. I reserved my room ahead, it may not be the cheapest but at least it’s not a refugio! My room is the one with the flags on the balcony. The three French guys turned up an hour or so after me. They said they will thank me in beer later, that sounds good to me!