Author: anthill

I had a great day yesterday viewing Rome by bike, you can fit so much more in and riding around in the crazy traffic is cool. I took my bike to a bike shop to check out the back wheel. Pedalando I think it was called. The guy pointed out that its wasn’t buckled, the rim had been damaged and warped out slightly. He couldn’t guarantee he could fix it but didn’t seem too worried that it would cause me any trouble.

I fought my way through Rome’s early morning rush hour traffic. It’s exhilarating and terrifying at the same time. In one tunnel I was going downhill and keeping up with the traffic, I felt I could win the race to the front. I passed a dark area under a bridge full of makeshift beds. I guess this is where some homeless must sleep at night. I left as quickly as I could, it didn’t look a happy place.

I’d planned the route to Spoleto out the night before. I knew I had a few small hills to go up and one major one at the end. The small hills were short but steep and there seemed to be a lot more than the GPS was letting on.

I saw a snake sunning itself on the road. It was about 4 foot long, green with black patterns. I don’t know much about snakes but I thought it was dead. As soon as I was close it shot off into the bushes. I almost squealed like a girl.

Just after this I got my first puncture of the trip. It didn’t take me long but was a minor inconvenience. My back tyres are really wearing down now so I guess I’ll have more of these to come unless I replace it. The guys in the bike shop in Rome had showed me a slick tyre they have but slick isn’t what I’m after.

I stopped for dinner at a gorgeous town perched on the edge of a valley called Narni. Before I knew it I was riding through Terni and approaching my final climb before I reached Spoleto. It was a touch climb, made difficult by the hot sunshine and heavy traffic. I had to stop a few times to ring out the padding in my helmet.

After a brief descent I arrived at Spoleto and made my way to its only campsite. Not a soul there so I decided to try and find a hotel. Turns out the 24th June Is the first day of Spoleto’s festival, so no chance there. I made my way back to the campsite. There were a few people there now so I setup camp for the night.

If you ever get chance make sure you visit Narni and Spoleto. They are two absolutely gorgeous towns, I hope to go back someday and spend more time there.

Rather hoped I’d be sleeping on a hammock in the lower decks of the ship but the cabin with bunk bed will do I suppose. Slept well apart from a constant itching from the mosquito bites I’d received the previous day.

The ferry was supposed to port at 8am but we were running late so I didn’t get off until 10am. Gave me time to have some breakfast and watch the ocean go buy. At one point a couple of dolphins jumped in and out of the water about 300m from the ship.

We docked and I made my way to Rome. I’d worked it out to be about 60km but it turned out to be a lot further than this. The road was well sign posted but then I was heading to Rome, so you’d expect that.

The ride went pretty smoothly and took until dinner time. I passed a sign for an antiquarium. Is this Italian for aquarium or do they just have no fish? Passed a fair few prostitutes and stopped for the occasional handful of sultanas. Eventually I ended up at Camping Roma where I’ve decided to stay for two nights. It’s not my rest day tomorrow but you can’t come all the way to Rome and not at least stop for one day.

The mosquitoes really went mad for me last night. I have seven bites down my left arm, a few on the back of my neck and some on both feet. Luckily when you’re cycling all day you don’t get chance to scratch them so they should heal soon. I just try to ignore them,

I had a small breakfast at the campsite bar as I discovered it was open at 7am in the morning. Maybe not officially but the barman sorted me out a café latte, two croissants and an orange juice. Whether it would be enough to keep me going until snack time around 11am we’d have to see. I was hoping to buy some bananas but the campsite market had nothing worth buying except bottled water.

I had a steep climb to get to the man road to Cagliari. So steep in fact I was pouring with sweat all down my front. I thought by the time I reach Cagliari I’m going to look a right state when the sweat dries and I’m covered in whit blotches.

I got on the main road. 102km to go, time to settle into it and enjoy the view. About 20km in I was diverted onto a larger road. It was only a newer road that tunnelled through the mountains and cut about 30km off the route, fantastic!

I stayed on this main road all the way to Cagliari before getting diverted due to road works just before I reached my destination. This seemed to add the 30km I’d lost back on (if not a little more), and I was exhausted by the time I finally reach Cagliari.

At 4pm I purchased my ticket for the ferry to Civitavecchia. This time I’d booked myself a cabin after very little sleep from Marseille to Bastia. Boarded the ferry and settled into my cabin. 74 Euros for a cabin with ensuite and 15 hour ferry trip to Rome(ish), I consider this quite a bargain.

Cagliari is the furthest south I’ll be on my entire trip at 39 degrees. Next ferry ride will take me to the most northern point of my trip, Finland.

I’d attempted to fix my buckled wheel yesterday. I’d made it a little better but it still needed the attention of a professional with the right tools. I was using a peg clipped onto my mudguard to measure how true the wheel span. Would have used the brake blocks but they were the other side of the wheel and difficult to see. Hopefully I’ll find somewhere in Rome.

After speaking to the owner of the campsite, he’d told me the route I was taking passed through an area of outstanding natural beauty. He wasn’t wrong. Not long after leaving the campsite the road gradually climbed. It continued this way for the next 3 hours. The views were absolutely stunning though. I could hardly keep my eyes on the road.

I stayed in the mountains most of the day and took the attached pictures. The camera can’t capture the vastness of the valley and mountains so you’ll just have to take my word for how beautiful it was.

I descended all the way into Tortolli and made my way to Tertenia where there was a campsite. There are just over 100 kilometres to Cagliaria. So hopefully, tomorrow I should be catching the ferry to Civitavecchia (about 60km north of Rome).

The sun had warmed my tent before I’d even got up. Before I knew it I’d already started to sweat. Packing stuff up in a baking hot tent is not very comfortable. After a mild night also, I could tell today was going to be a scorcher.

There doesn’t seem to be one direct road through Sardinia, just lots a small roads leading to equally small towns. I decided to take a route down the east coast and head for Olbia. At Olbia you can catch a ferry to mainland Italy. I was already working up quite a sweat and the thought of an early exit on an air conditioned ferry to Rome was a tempting option. But no, I persevered and carried on through the port of Oblia.

Yesterday I’d passed a dead dog, today a dead tortoise. Whatever next?

By this point of was soaking in sweat and not at all comfortable so I stopped at a restaurant for food and to cool down.

The afternoon got no easier. The temperature was now accompanied by the strongest headwind I had experienced since the start of the trip. I retired earlier than I wanted and felt thoroughly demoralised.

At the campsite I’d discovered my rear wheel was slightly buckled. I’m not sure if I can fix it but I’ll try my best on tomorrows rest day.

Feeling fully recharged I set off early heading for the port town of Benefacio at the south of Corsica. The ride would continue my journey on the N198 all the way to Benfacio.

The night before I’d stumbled upon a beach side hotel full of English, Even the barmaid wasn’t fooled by my “Une Bierre”. Wearing a Guinness t-shirt probably didn’t help. I’d been chatting to an English family who had been down the route I was taking on an excursion. They told me to expect heavy traffic and steep hills. They were incorrect on both parts.

The road reminded me of the route to Salamanca. One long road that seems to go on forever. Although cycling through the holiday towns broke it up a bit.

I passed a dead dog on the side of the road. In the UK I thought it was the law to pull over. It’s obviously not the same here. Poor thing!

The road started to wind a bit around Porto Vecchio and the last 20km to Benefacio was murder. I had a strong headwind and I had run out of water.

At Benefacio I jumped straight on the ferry to Sardinia. After arriving at the northerly tip I made my way to the nearest campsite according to my GPS.

Never managed to get drunk at the prices they wanted at the bar on the ferry, and never managed to get much sleep either. The arms on the chairs were thick metal so it’s not like you could even spread yourself across two chairs. Most people slept on the floor which in hindsight I probably should have done also.

Woke up early morning (when they turn the lights on) to find myself on the coast of Corsica. I don’t know much of its history but I bet when it was first discovered they thought it was paradise. Dominating mountains blanketed in lush thick trees, beautiful deep blue oceans and gorgeous weather. I could just about make all this out through my blurry vision and sore eyes.

I met a French cyclist on the ferry who was going to spend 15 days cycling around the island. He went the tourist route while I went straight down the main road towards Sardinia. Its Italy I want to get to now and unfortunately I didn’t have much time to research Corsica’s delights to spend any time appreciating them.

As I didn’t sleep a wink I didn’t want to push myself too hard so I finished my ride today at 11am. I’m about a quarter if the way down the island. I’ve had my first swim in the sea since the beginning of the trip and relax around the pool. Early night tonight so I feel fresh tomorrow.

I stayed at the lemon hotel. I think they buy out old Forumla 1 hotels and don’t bother doing them up. Still, it was cheap at 33 Euro including breakfast.

I left with sights set on Marseille, or more importantly, Corsica. I’ve heard bad things about Marseille from numerous people and have been told to avoid it at all cost because of crime. This was always my plan, but if I caught the ferry from Marseille rather than Nice it would save me two days riding. Maybe that sounds like I’m cheating a bit but I’m only cheating myself. Besides, cycling down Corsica then onto Sardinia actually adds distance on to my ride.

The day was short, only 60 miles in total and it took me no time at all. I’d found out the night before that the ferry didn’t leave until 19:00 and I arrived in Marseille just after dinner. I had time to sit around and check out a local bar before purchasing my ticket for the overnight ferry.

Today was a lot better than yesterday, although I swear I paid more than anyone on the ferry who have cabins and I’ve ended up with a reclining chair. That’s better than nothing I guess, I’ll rest tomorrow. Think I’ll get slightly tipsy tonight to help me sleep. The beers not cheap but the need is great.

It’s been one of those days where nothing seems to go right and I have a run of bad luck.

Firstly, I left the campsite and immediately got lost trying to find the coastal road that would take me north to Sete. I found one road but it said no cyclists so I had to go back to where I’d come from.

Secondly, I used my GPS to navigate me to Sete although it was on the setting to avoid Highways. This normally would be a good thing but it mean it was trying to get to Sete via all the minor roads. So I ended up going completely the wrong direction, and ended up further from Sete than when I started. It took me all afternoon to catch my time up and meant I had to ride over 100 miles today.

Thirdly, I get beeped at if I don’t use the cycle lanes. Normally I just ignore them but the one next to the beach looked ok so I joined it. With some speed behind me I hit some deep sand where the dune had spilled across the cycle path. I thought I was coming off, how I managed to control it I have no idea as my front wheel wasn’t even straight. I think the momentum helped to some degree.

Fourthly, Today has been the hottest day I’ve experienced since Portugal.

Fifthly, I joined the canal du Rhone from Aigues Mortes to Beaucaire. This was fine at first but the track ended so I had to get on the road. This is when my GPS packed in and kept turning itself off. It wouldn’t come on at all and this was my only form of navigation. Luckily it started working again after an hour or so, but for how long.

Finally, I booked into a lemon hotel. There are restaurants around but they are all shut and I just missed the supermarket too. I had a pizza delivered and when getting my fork out of my pannier it fell over. The lid came off my washing liquid and poured all inside my pannier, covering my sleeping bag.

Surely nothing else can go wrong today?

I’m just outside Beaucaire. I’m considering cycling to Marseille tomorrow and getting a ferry to Corsica as opposed to getting one from Nice.

I left early to make a good start. I knew I wanted to get as far as Agde as it looked a good distance. Today I had decided to try and follow some of the Eurovelo Mediterranean route. These are usually much prettier routes with less traffic, but wouldn’t usually be so direct.

I think I had the wind behind me as I picked up a good pace. A pace that would stay with me all the way to Port La Nouvelle. I followed a road that took me along a tiny strip of road that separated a few large lakes from the sea, although I’m pretty sure the sea was the source of the lakes. The traffic was heavy but the views of the Pyrenees in the distance were nice.

At Port La Nouvele I joined the Robine Canal which would take me all the way to Narbonne. I was a bit worried I might get a puncture as the path was rough and the stones were sharp. I constantly heard stones pinging out from under my tyres, but my trusty Schwalbe Marathon Kevlar tyres stayed strong.

At Narbonne I followed some country roads through little villages before joining the Canal Du Midi at Colombiers. The canal was very pretty with its tree lined paths and some of the biggest narrow boats I had ever seen. To go with that went the biggest locks I had ever seen. I stopped to watch three cruisers climb one lock at the same time. The amount of water required to fill each lock was immense. Just standing high on the path I could feel the force of the water and spray on my face. The boats had to tie themselves to the bank because of the force.

Upon reaching Beziers I was diverted north before I could go south to Agde. The road was pleasant but its no fun when you know you are having to do extra miles just because of some road works. It’s ok in a car, but seeing the French “deviation” sign makes my heart sink.

I finally got to Agde and made my way to the campsites on the coast. Tomorrow is my rest day. I’ll be riding again on Tuesday.