Author: anthill

It was restless night as it was so humid but I’d managed to get some sleep. The rain I’d been hoping for never came, and the sky outside was blue. Just as well I’d left early so I managed to catch the cool of the morning.

Ride started well. I hadn’t descended from yesterday’s climb and made my way across the top of the mountain passing a few small villages. I then joined a road that did descend. It was amazing, sweeping roundd the corners as fast as the cars, lovely cool breeze. It made yesterday’s ride seem all worthwhile. On reflection, maybe not.

I swept down the mountain to Mesao Frio where I took this picture. Absolutely stunning I’m sure you’ll agree. I followed this river up through the tourist town of Peso De Rugua. I then crossed the river and continued along it for some time before heading back into the mountains.

I’d settled into a rhythm at this point so climbing the mountains seemed quite easy. I climbed for a good hour and a half. A waiter at a café called me Loco, I’d have to agree with him, but round here it’s the Portuguese wine making region, grapevines as far as the eye can see, and it is beautiful. Definitely worth all the climbing.

Today was 38 degrees Celsius, much hotter than the day before. Without the humidity and a slight breeze it made the ride quite bearable. Clouds built up in the afternoon so the sun disappeared completely. About time.

The afternoon consisted of yet more climbing. I kept climbing even though I couldn’t see anywhere in front of me that looked any higher.

Towards the end of the day I ended up high in the mountains. Scanning a full 360 degree of the horizon I could see no cars, no people and no buildings. Felt a little nervy so late in the day, I was thinking I’d be camping in the mountains. Sounds kinda of exciting but I’d prefer not to with so many thunderstorms about and not much shelter.

Finally reached a town of a good size but no places to stay, so I carried on to Figuera De Castillo Rodrigo. A checked myself into a 4 star hotel. I just couldn’t help it! Most of the day seemed to be going up, and as I’d covered 92 miles I think I deserved it.

The German guy, Marvin, told me that it’s nice to have jar of chick peas for dinner, even better with cottage cheese, so I thought I’d try it. Got myself a huge 1 litre jar of chick peas, they didn’t have cottage cheese so I went for cream of brie, and to spice it up a bit I added some cherry tomatoes. This probably could have been quite tasty, but the chick peas were in some kind of jelly, not dissimilar to what you get around minced beef. It smelt like dog food. Secondly the cream of brie really didn’t add much flavour. It looked, smelt and tasted horrible, but the tomatoes were lovely!

I woke early to the sound of thunder. I’m dying for a good storm to take some of the heat away. Unfortunately it was off in the distance. I’d had a lie in because of the hour I gained the day before, but this just meant I was getting up when the sun was higher. So I was sweating before I’d even left the campsite. Then I sliced my arm on the corner of the pannier clip, this didn’t look like it was going to be a good day.

As I’d suspected it wasn’t. It was so humid I was pouring sweat more than the day before. I knew I’d be climbing some hills later so I was hoping the storms would come back.

The towns around where I’d camped were quite bizarre. They were made up labyrinths of tiny cobbled streets that didn’t seem to go anywhere in particular. It was like the place hadn’t been touched since time began. Got back on the main road and made my way to Porto.

I didn’t need to go into Porto so I cut through the outskirts and headed east. I then started to climb some really steep hills. It started to rain but it wasn’t enough to drop the temperature. I was struggling. It’s not like I was tired, I was just too hot!

I could see thunder storms building and this made it even milder and sticky. I then started to climb the biggest hill of the day (unknown to me). It went on for a lifetime and was completely open to the sun. It was becoming unbearable, there was no breeze and even the shade didn’t cool me down. I don’t think it was helped by the fact the road had been cooked most of the day. I reached the top only to find a diversion because of road works. Up I continued, even further than before. I had to keep stopping for a drink and catch my breath every couple of kilometres. This was by far the worst day of the entire trip. The picture I’ve added is one I took from the top of the hill.

I finally reached Baiao. A small town perched up the hill I had previously climbed. It’s really quite pretty up in the hills. The sky is thick black in the distance and you can see the rain falling, but it doesn’t seem to want to come over by me.

I know I’ve got another hill-ridden day tomorrow. I’m not looking forward to it but if it cools down overnight it should be more comfortable.

It was a very mild night indeed, far warmer than any other night so far. I’d warn my thermals as a precaution as I was next to the coast but didn’t sleep very well at all. Apart from this the sun was rising and the coast looked angry leaving a gorgeous mist in the air along the coastline.

Cycled the fifteen miles to A Guarda, and boarded the ferry crossing to Portugal. The ferry across cost 75 cents, I was pleased with my bargain considering I’d have to cycle an extra 60 km to use the bridge up the estuary.

It was another hot day and I was already beginning to struggle. My arms and face were constantly wet and the salt kept getting into my eyes. It also drained me and fatigue hit me fast. Luckily the roads were a lot flatter than the previous day and I was just able to keep a pretty decent pace.

I’d forgotten that Portugal was on the same time as the UK and I’d actually gained an hour. So I ate quite early. Thanks to the GPS again I went over a few more hills on tiny tracks before following the signs to Porto. The road now was lovely and flat, it was still scorching hot, but I was able to get into a good rhythm.

It all went wrong at Pavoa De Varzim. I had stopped for a coke at a restaurant. As I left, I was waiting for a gap in the traffic on the restaurant car park when I heard the car next to me start up. Before I knew it, it was reversing back at me with some speed. I shouted but it was too late. It knocked me straight off the bike, I saw the bike go under the rear of the car as I hit the ground. A few people rushed out the restaurant to make sure I was ok. My left ankle and my hip hurt but I was more concerned about the bike. As far as I could make out the man that hit me was very apologetic. I checked the bike and took his phone number just in case. Everything seemed fine to my amazement, lets just hope nothing like that happens again. If I hadn’t come off the bike my leg could have gone under with the bike.

So I’d had enough, and decided to find the nearest camp site to lick my wounds and check my bike over. I’m just north of Porto now. I’ll probably give the sightseeing a miss as I have time to make up after the last two weeks in Santiago.

Thank you to my gorgeous girlie for coming over and keeping me company for a week. We had a lovely relaxing time but unfortunately I came down with a bad cold on the Friday.

I woke up early with all the intention of starting early but got chatting to an English guy, who was raising money for Help The Heroes and was making his way back to the UK today. He had rode the camino from Chartres, France. He offered me some of his omelette but I had already eaten some porridge and wanted to get going asap.

I cycled through the centre of Santiago to say a fond farewell to my home for the last two weeks. The weather was stunning, the sky was lovely and clear. Unfortunately the traffic on the N550 towards Pontevedra had other ideas.

I didn’t seem to be going too badly considering I was suffering a cold and hadn’t ridden for two weeks. Although following the signs for the N550 through the centre of Pontevedra was trying to send me on an Autopista, so I had to back-track a good five miles.

I stopped for lunch in Redondela before continuing. There, I had asked the waitress for a coca-cola and a beer. I got both, just in the same glass. Not wanting to make a fuss, I drank the poo brown liquid.

After dinner it got hot. My GPS was reading 32 degrees Celsius, my head was pounding and I was sweating profusely. I struggled all afternoon, not helped by the fact my GPS sent me a more direct route over the mountains and stupidly small tracks.

I spotted my first prostitute of the trip today. She popped her chewing gum at me as I rode past. That was me sorted and it hadn’t cost me a cent!

Eventually I hit the Atlantic coast and headed south. I pitched up about fifteen miles north of the border to Portugal, where tomorrow I’d be heading.

Just thought Id update the blog even though I haven’t travelled anywhere over the past week.

Ive been cleaning the bike, washing clothes, putting on some lost weight and generally just taking it easy. Oh and of course having a look around the beautiful city that is Santiago De Compostela.

There is plenty to see as it has such a lot of historical sites, not only the cathedral. There are many museums, galleries, parks and bars to hang out in.

During the day the city is mainly buzzing with tourists and in the evening it’s alive with the large student community. When I say evening, I’m talking more early hours of the morning, these Spanish sure know how to party!

I really like it at Camping Las Cancelas. The facilities are excellent even if the pool isn’t open yet. It has a bar with free internet and it’s about a 20 minute walk from the centre. Many tourers and caravans come and go daily and I’ve met quite a few people here.

One German guy called Marvin had cycled from Germany. He has mainly wild camped due to his limited budget. We went for a few drinks in Santiago and chilled out one evening with some wine. Thank you to the nice Australians that leant me a stool to sit on and gave me a bowl of strawberries. Oh and Harry from Switzerland, I told you it wasn’t going to rain!

Next week I’m sharing an apartment with my fiance just down the road. I’m really looking forward to the company and some to share this lovely city with.

I have uploaded some of my photos on to facebook.

Firstly, Happy birthday Andrea!

It was a misty start in Portomarin with quite a strong headwind. Leading out of the town was quite a steep hill, I passed a pilgrim pushing her bike up the hill.

The terrain now has many hills and the countryside is like that of England in summer (just better roads). It’s very beautiful but I do really not like the hills. Steep hills are followed by steep descents but immediately another steep ascent. Accompanied by the strong headwind this was one of the hardest days rides, and of all days! Maybe I was struggling because I was pushing hard to get to Santiago, I don’t know, I just found it incredibly difficult.

This didn’t really let up, and continued throughout the rest of the day. Apart from getting slightly lost around Santiago airport (thank you GPS for sorting that out) I managed to get to Santiago fine and got my bearings from when I was here before.

I handed in my credencial at the pilgrims office and got my certificate. It’s all in Latin, including my name. So I’ve now officially completed the Camino De Santiago. Now to buy a t-shirt!

I love Santiago, I think it’s a beautiful city. Well worth a visit if ever you get the opportunity!

My girlfriend is coming to spend a week with me on the 16th so I’ve got a week to wash clothes, maintain the bike, and chill out. Was going to celebrate my arrival tonight but I’m just so tired. I’ll leave it until tomorrow night. There will probably be more going on on a Friday night.

I’ve been spoilt over the last few days with some very nice hotels. I’m back in the campsite now, I’m happy here, and it’s a lot cheaper.

I stayed in a gorgeous rural guesthouse, it was so rural it didnt even have a television! I left early, before the owners were up, so I had to let myself out. Not easy when trying to push a 50+ kilo bike through small doorways and trying not to wake anyone.

Up until Vega Del Valcarce the climb was gentle. This is when the real climbing begins. Today was supposed to be one of the hardest of the camino. Involving an agonising climb back into the mountains. To be honest, it wasn’t too bad. It wasn’t particularly steep, just went on for a long time.

Once at the top I got my sello and carried on. There are a number of small peaks before one of the best downhill’s ever, much better than any rollercoaster I’ve been on. The road was smooth, twisting and turning down the mountain made the climb worth every bead of sweat.

This took me almost down into Sarria (barring a few small hills), where I stopped for a tasty pollo sandwich and a sello at the local tourist office.

The route from Sarria to Portomarin is quite difficult. Very steep hills but with some very long downhills. This made the 20 odd kilometres seem more like 50, but I made it without any problems.

I never saw the French guys today. One of them wasn’t feeling too good yesterday so perhaps they stayed in Villafranca Del Bierzo. I did pass two Spanish guys I’d seen before, they make motorcycle noises at me because I overtake them so quickly.

Tomorrow is my last day on the camino. I will finally reach Santiago De Compostela. I can’t wait! Then I get to chill out for a whole two weeks, a holiday at last!

The French guys turn out to be top blokes. Simon, Ben and Mathew (I’m pretty sure are their names). We sat at their refugio drinking and eating, it was a good evening. They tell me that my refugio experience at Najera wasn’t typical, and that I should try another one. I’m not entirely convinced but say I might.

The next morning I bump into them again just before we set off up the highest peak of the camino. I set off ahead. It certainly wasn’t as bad as the route from Saint Jean Pied du Port but it was tiring just the same. It also didn’t help that I’d only just got up and my body wasn’t quite ready for such exertion. Made it to the top (1800m) where I was joined by the French guys. Just before the top is an iron cross called the Cruz De Farro. You’re supposed to bring a stone from your home town and leave it at the base. Bringing a stone from Birmingham wasn’t on my list of things to pack, so unfortunately I couldn’t contribute.

After this is an 18km decent almost all the way into Ponferrada. The views were absolutely stunning but I was enjoying the downhill so much I failed to stop and take any pictures.

I had two huge croissants in Ponferrada before continuing the 10 miles on to Villafranca del Bierzo. I arrived just after midday.

Over the last two days the guide I’ve been following has only suggested short distances. They are a little too short as I’m arriving at my destination by dinner and not appreciating a full days ride. Luckily, tomorrow covers more ground, and I should reach Santiago de Compostela by Thursday.

I had a nice day in Leon, apart from it being a Sunday. I needed to get some supplies but everything was shut. The cathedral is a stunner outside and in, and it is free entry unlike Burgos. The amount of stained glass sets the cathedral off with so many colours. As it was a Sunday there was a service going on and the organ filled the cathedral with music.

On the night, I was sleeping well until I got woken at 02:30 by some noisy people getting back and making as much noise as possible. Tried to block it out with some music but this didn’t help. Two hours later they were asleep, and so was I.

I left the hotel early. First stop was Astorga. The route was a steady incline along the N120 but my pace was good. At Astorga I bumped into three French cyclists, one had quit because his chain had snapped. They were amazed that I could fix it. This slowed me down somewhat but I was only planning on doing 73km today, and only had 20km left to Rabanal Del Camino.

After fixing the chain, and saying goodbye I was on my way again, not before eating two large custard filled tarts, for the sugar of course! Still a steady incline all the way to Rabanal, only a little steeper. I’m told it gets steeper after this, up to the highest point on the camino, bring it on I say, looking forward to the steep downhill into Ponferrada.

Rabanal is a beautiful little farming village. There are two hotels and just as many hostals. I reserved my room ahead, it may not be the cheapest but at least it’s not a refugio! My room is the one with the flags on the balcony. The three French guys turned up an hour or so after me. They said they will thank me in beer later, that sounds good to me!

It got quite cold in the night so sleep was sporadic. On the whole I slept a lot better than at a refugio. Left early, and fuelled on some kind of custard filled donut, a handful of dried fruit, two bananas and a piece of chocolate, I made my way towards Leon.

The route was not completely flat, it has a very gradual incline, but not too noticeable to make the ride a struggle. The weather was looking grey and there were a few spots occasionally but nothing to dampen my spirits as I pushed hard to get the 110km under my belt to get to Leon.

The ride was quite uneventful, town, sello, eat, go, repeat. I’m resigned to the fact now that It’s harder to get hold of croissants, but Spain has many lovely alternatives. Today I had two pastries, not sure what they were, but one was covered in a sticky syrup and nuts, and the other had sliced peaches with some kind of custard mix (it weighed a tonne).

Got to Leon around 1500 and checked into my Hostel. I may stay another night as I’m in no rush and can spend the day having a look around Leon.