Category: europe

Firstly, Happy birthday Andrea!

It was a misty start in Portomarin with quite a strong headwind. Leading out of the town was quite a steep hill, I passed a pilgrim pushing her bike up the hill.

The terrain now has many hills and the countryside is like that of England in summer (just better roads). It’s very beautiful but I do really not like the hills. Steep hills are followed by steep descents but immediately another steep ascent. Accompanied by the strong headwind this was one of the hardest days rides, and of all days! Maybe I was struggling because I was pushing hard to get to Santiago, I don’t know, I just found it incredibly difficult.

This didn’t really let up, and continued throughout the rest of the day. Apart from getting slightly lost around Santiago airport (thank you GPS for sorting that out) I managed to get to Santiago fine and got my bearings from when I was here before.

I handed in my credencial at the pilgrims office and got my certificate. It’s all in Latin, including my name. So I’ve now officially completed the Camino De Santiago. Now to buy a t-shirt!

I love Santiago, I think it’s a beautiful city. Well worth a visit if ever you get the opportunity!

My girlfriend is coming to spend a week with me on the 16th so I’ve got a week to wash clothes, maintain the bike, and chill out. Was going to celebrate my arrival tonight but I’m just so tired. I’ll leave it until tomorrow night. There will probably be more going on on a Friday night.

I’ve been spoilt over the last few days with some very nice hotels. I’m back in the campsite now, I’m happy here, and it’s a lot cheaper.

I stayed in a gorgeous rural guesthouse, it was so rural it didnt even have a television! I left early, before the owners were up, so I had to let myself out. Not easy when trying to push a 50+ kilo bike through small doorways and trying not to wake anyone.

Up until Vega Del Valcarce the climb was gentle. This is when the real climbing begins. Today was supposed to be one of the hardest of the camino. Involving an agonising climb back into the mountains. To be honest, it wasn’t too bad. It wasn’t particularly steep, just went on for a long time.

Once at the top I got my sello and carried on. There are a number of small peaks before one of the best downhill’s ever, much better than any rollercoaster I’ve been on. The road was smooth, twisting and turning down the mountain made the climb worth every bead of sweat.

This took me almost down into Sarria (barring a few small hills), where I stopped for a tasty pollo sandwich and a sello at the local tourist office.

The route from Sarria to Portomarin is quite difficult. Very steep hills but with some very long downhills. This made the 20 odd kilometres seem more like 50, but I made it without any problems.

I never saw the French guys today. One of them wasn’t feeling too good yesterday so perhaps they stayed in Villafranca Del Bierzo. I did pass two Spanish guys I’d seen before, they make motorcycle noises at me because I overtake them so quickly.

Tomorrow is my last day on the camino. I will finally reach Santiago De Compostela. I can’t wait! Then I get to chill out for a whole two weeks, a holiday at last!

The French guys turn out to be top blokes. Simon, Ben and Mathew (I’m pretty sure are their names). We sat at their refugio drinking and eating, it was a good evening. They tell me that my refugio experience at Najera wasn’t typical, and that I should try another one. I’m not entirely convinced but say I might.

The next morning I bump into them again just before we set off up the highest peak of the camino. I set off ahead. It certainly wasn’t as bad as the route from Saint Jean Pied du Port but it was tiring just the same. It also didn’t help that I’d only just got up and my body wasn’t quite ready for such exertion. Made it to the top (1800m) where I was joined by the French guys. Just before the top is an iron cross called the Cruz De Farro. You’re supposed to bring a stone from your home town and leave it at the base. Bringing a stone from Birmingham wasn’t on my list of things to pack, so unfortunately I couldn’t contribute.

After this is an 18km decent almost all the way into Ponferrada. The views were absolutely stunning but I was enjoying the downhill so much I failed to stop and take any pictures.

I had two huge croissants in Ponferrada before continuing the 10 miles on to Villafranca del Bierzo. I arrived just after midday.

Over the last two days the guide I’ve been following has only suggested short distances. They are a little too short as I’m arriving at my destination by dinner and not appreciating a full days ride. Luckily, tomorrow covers more ground, and I should reach Santiago de Compostela by Thursday.

I had a nice day in Leon, apart from it being a Sunday. I needed to get some supplies but everything was shut. The cathedral is a stunner outside and in, and it is free entry unlike Burgos. The amount of stained glass sets the cathedral off with so many colours. As it was a Sunday there was a service going on and the organ filled the cathedral with music.

On the night, I was sleeping well until I got woken at 02:30 by some noisy people getting back and making as much noise as possible. Tried to block it out with some music but this didn’t help. Two hours later they were asleep, and so was I.

I left the hotel early. First stop was Astorga. The route was a steady incline along the N120 but my pace was good. At Astorga I bumped into three French cyclists, one had quit because his chain had snapped. They were amazed that I could fix it. This slowed me down somewhat but I was only planning on doing 73km today, and only had 20km left to Rabanal Del Camino.

After fixing the chain, and saying goodbye I was on my way again, not before eating two large custard filled tarts, for the sugar of course! Still a steady incline all the way to Rabanal, only a little steeper. I’m told it gets steeper after this, up to the highest point on the camino, bring it on I say, looking forward to the steep downhill into Ponferrada.

Rabanal is a beautiful little farming village. There are two hotels and just as many hostals. I reserved my room ahead, it may not be the cheapest but at least it’s not a refugio! My room is the one with the flags on the balcony. The three French guys turned up an hour or so after me. They said they will thank me in beer later, that sounds good to me!

It got quite cold in the night so sleep was sporadic. On the whole I slept a lot better than at a refugio. Left early, and fuelled on some kind of custard filled donut, a handful of dried fruit, two bananas and a piece of chocolate, I made my way towards Leon.

The route was not completely flat, it has a very gradual incline, but not too noticeable to make the ride a struggle. The weather was looking grey and there were a few spots occasionally but nothing to dampen my spirits as I pushed hard to get the 110km under my belt to get to Leon.

The ride was quite uneventful, town, sello, eat, go, repeat. I’m resigned to the fact now that It’s harder to get hold of croissants, but Spain has many lovely alternatives. Today I had two pastries, not sure what they were, but one was covered in a sticky syrup and nuts, and the other had sliced peaches with some kind of custard mix (it weighed a tonne).

Got to Leon around 1500 and checked into my Hostel. I may stay another night as I’m in no rush and can spend the day having a look around Leon.

Burgos itself is a very attractive city, with lots of small bars and a lively atmosphere. The cathedral was impressive on the outside but wasn’t particularly so impressive on the inside. The castle was closed for some reason and I wasn’t in the mood for any of the museums. I’d recommend a visit for anyone who hasn’t been.

I left Burgos in high spirits after a good night sleep and a day rest. Found the route out of town easy as it was the same road I’d come in on, the N120. In fact I’d be following this a lot of the way to Leon over the next few days.

The route deviated south to re-join the Camino towards Castrojeriz, a pretty little hillside town with not a lot going on but has a certain charm. This route took me across the Meseta, a high plateau that runs across the centre of Spain. Once you’re on it, its flat and there isn’t much for miles upon miles. I would hate something bad to happen to my bike on the Meseta. Luckily it didn’t, and so I carried on to Carrion De Los Condes for a nights rest at Camping Eden. I was feeling a bit rough so went to bed early.

I didnt sleep a wink. Might have been something to do with the loud snoring by 20 or 30 close occupants, the unbelievably hot temperature the room got, the street light that ONLY seemed to be pointed at my face or the fact at 0600 everyone decided to get up and go. I certainly wasn’t going to get any sleep so up I got. Oh, and the showers were cold. At least I didn’t have to pay, although I feel I should have been paid to sleep in those conditions. I’m not a snob, I just like my sleep!

Apart from that the day went reasonably well. Was cold in the morning as the sun hadn’t risen, but this made for some gorgeous scenery of Spanish rolling hills just as the sun did rise.

I Followed the N120 all the way to Burgos, stopping at a few towns on the way to get my sello.

I’m now in Burgos, staying in a hotel that Keri found for me. I’ve even booked it for two nights to recuperate some of the sleep I lost last night. It’s not too expensive and has free internet. So tomorrow will be a day of sightseeing around Burgos. My travels will continue on Friday.

Id stayed at one of the busiest campsites Id ever seen. Oddly though, everyone disappeared around 18:00 and they never seemed to return. I also noticed that the mullet seems to be back in fashion in these parts at the moment. Give me another couple of months and I’ll be right there with’em.

Not much happened really. The day consisted of a long slog up and down hills in the sunshine. I tend to find it difficult in some towns to find where to get my sello. Either the place is closed (more often than not), or it’s just not easily recognisable. I always manage to get my sello in the end.

If you didn’t know, this area is the Rioja region, famous for its beautiful wines. I cycled past so many bodegas, a lot of which seem to be closed down and/or for sale. I was tempted for a second!

Today i lost my toiletries bag! I left it on the floor outside a bank after taking things out to get to my sweeties. Such a pain, i didn’t realise until i was about 40 miles away. I have images of the bomb disposal team being called to blow up a suspicious package outside the caja rural, only to coat the front window with Nivea Shower Gel.

Finally I ended up in Najera. A busy little town with a carnival in town, or does that just seem to be every town in Spain. Without realising it, when I got my sello at the Refugio, the lady had allocated me a room to stay. I was tired, I thought go on then. Turns out room 67 isn’t a room at all. In fact it’s a bottom bunk amidst many, many more bunk beds. This was not going to be a good night!

If you’re interested in the route I’m taking for the camino here is a rough route as there are a few mistakes.

I stayed in a small family run hostel just the other side of Roncesvalles. The madre obviously owned the place and everyone who entered. She scared me a little but my room had a lock. Breakfast comprised of three small rich tea biscuit sized pieces of hard bread that I can only assume was toast. As well as a croissant with a hard bit in the middle, maybe stale. I probably wouldn’t stay here again.

As I was still above 1000m the weather was dull and misty due to being in the clouds. Either way it was wet, so on went the waterproofs.

I was waiting anxiously for my decent and it never really came much to my disappointment. Most of the morning was spent in the clouds.

When I did finally descend a little it brightened up. I took a road that outskirts Pamplona so I didn’t get to go through it, no bull Greg. This was to cut out some big climbs.

I arrived in Puente La Reina and got my third stamp in my credential aka sellos. Every pilgrim that has walked the camino in the last thousand or so years has crossed the bridge (pictured), as it’s a convergence between two camino routes from France. I had a sandwich before continuing on. Finally ending up in Estella where I camped for the night.

Rather than have another rest day I started off early.

Some very steep hills to start the ride, really took it out of me. A boy leaving church decided to race me down a hill, he didnt stand much of a chance but when he ran straight into the signpost he was a gonner. I could have stopped to see if he was ok but i was laughing too much!

Got to Saint-Jean-pied-du-port in no time at all. Went and grabbed my credencial and got my first stamp. Got so excited by this I decided to carry on to Roncesvalles.

Crossing the border to Spain got me all emotional…stupid fool, but the hill climb of 1000m soon put a stop to that. Not to mention the rain!

Got my second stamp and then booked myself into a hostel.

Tomorrow I make a move towards Pamplona.